Tags: grande, mach 1, mustang, wiring diagram
Herein you will see a wiring diagram of the 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1 and Grande. The 1970 Mustang Mach 1 was clearly different with ’69 model. The 1970 Mach 1 took on a few of the Boss parts such as the rear window louvers and incorporated additional styling of its own. Like another 1970 Ford Mustang, Mach 1 featured revised front sheet metal, including the new distinctive outer front “gills” and going back to a 2 headlight configuration. The 1970 version also incorporated a functional hood scoop, designed to force cool air into the engine at speed, producing additional horsepower from the denser oxygen mixture. This feature is also known as “ram air” and is also the basis of the current cold air induction kits. It’s distinctive matte black accents gave it a unique two-tone appearance and a much more aggressive look than the standard sports roof Mustang. A new black honey comb trim panel was inserted between the recessed tail lights and new for ’70 Mach l badges were added.
The wiring diagram shown here is quite clear and readable, you can see clearly the cable color codes, each connections, and each parts. The wires codes shown here will be like Black-Pink, Black-Light green, Black-Yellow, etc. As for the parts, we shall see the parts like: courtesy light, light switch connector, windshield wiper switch, high temperature buzzer, trans indicator light, instrument light, generator indicator, gas gauge, etc. To view the detail of wiring diagram, click here to download.
Tags: ford, grande, mach 1, mustang, wiring diagram
Herein you will see a wiring diagram of the 1973 Ford Mustang. The 1973 marked as the end of the first generation of Mustang. A shortage of fuel became a nationwide concern. Consumers wanted fuel efficient vehicles that were cheap to insure and capable of passing newly emissions standards. This meant the Mustang designers must have to go back to the drawing board to create an economical car with consumer appeal.
The 1973 did’t get much changed. The turn signals in the grille were turned vertical rather than the horizontal placement on 1971-1972 models. Chrome headlight and taillights bezels replaced the black from 1971-1972. The Mach 1 lost it’s pop-open fuel door, and the side stripes were lowered and thicker, with Mach 1 written inside the stripe in front of the rear wheel rather than on the front fender behind the front wheel. 1973 also the last year for Mustang Grandé.
In this diagram, you can see body and engine wiring diagram configurations. It shows the various electrical circuits, fuses, distributor, etc. It also includes electric windows, seats, wipers, etc. To view the complete 1973 Ford Mustang wiring diagram, click here to download.
Tags: ford, mustang, wiring diagram
Herein you will see a wiring diagram of the 1969 Ford Mustang. For 1969 models, the Mustang received a larger body, a more aggressive stance, and a wider grille. wheelbase stayed at 108 inches, overall length grew to 187.4 inches, up 3.8 inches, most of it in front overhang. Width swelled to 71.3 inches overall, while height came down slightly to 51.2. Base curb weight rose to just over 2800 pounds.
Dimensional gains were evident inside, too. Thinner doors improved front shoulder room by 2.5 inches, hip room by 1.5 inches. Modifying a frame crossmember upped rear legroom a whopping 2.5 inches. Trunk capacity increased “13 to 29 percent,” but that didn’t amount to much because there’d been so little space before. And at a quoted 9.8 cubic feet, even this larger hold could still manage a two-suiter and little else. The ’69 Mustangs offered the widest choice of models and powertrains yet, with some introduced after the late-August 1968 showroom debut. The stalwart 200- and 250-cubic-inch sixes returned with 115 and 155 horsepower, respectively. The base 302 V-8 option remained at 220 horsepower, but the big-block 390 was back to 320, down five from ’68. In between these was a pair of important new 351 small-blocks, more of which shortly. Again topping the list was the muscular Cobra Jet 428, available with and without ram-air induction but conservatively rated either way at 335 horsepower. Transmissions were the usual three- and four-speed manuals and Cruise-O-Matic, but Ford actually used two different four-speeds and three different automatics depending on engine.
In this diagram, you can see body and engine wiring diagram configurations. It shows the various electrical circuits, fuses, distributor, etc. It also includes electric windows, seats, wipers, etc. To view the complete 1969 Ford mustang wiring diagram, click here to download.
Tags: ford, mustang, wiring diagram
Herein you will see a wiring diagram of the 1964 Ford Mustang. This model year also know as 1964 1/2 Mustang. The first model was available as a coupe or convertible, and featured a base 170-cubic inch six-cylinder engine with a three-speed floor shift transmission. An optional 260-cubic inch V-8 engine was available, in addition to a four-speed manual transmission or a three-speed automatic “Cruise-O-Matic” transmission. Additional highlights include a horizontal speedometer layout (also found on 1965s), similar to the one on the Ford Falcon. The Mustang was, after all, based on the Ford Falcon. Thus, the early models carried over some of these features. Other features of a true 1964 ½ Ford Mustang include a brake-light pressure switch on the master cylinder as well as large horns mounted on the frame of the vehicle behind the radiator.
These diagrams cover body and engine wiring diagram configurations. It shows the various electrical circuits, fuses, distributor, etc. It also includes electric windows, seats, wipers, etc. This wiring diagram divided into two parts, you can click the picture above to see the engine compartment part; and click here to view the rear side of 1964 1/2 Mustang wiring diagram.
Tags: gauges, interior lighting, mustang, windshield wiper, wiring diagram
Tags: ford, ignition, mustang
Tags: fog lamp, ford, mustang, wiring diagram
Mustang Fog Lamp Installation :
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the standard grille and install a GT grille.
3. Assemble fog lamp bars to horse & corral and mount them to the grille.
4. Install fog lamps to saddles in bars.
5. Hook up wires to bulbs and install. Route the wires through grille and headlamp wiring holes that are in the inner fender wells.
6. Fasten ground wires under existing ground wire screws in the radiator support.
7. Route 12-volt supply wire with the existing harness in the radiator support and along the left inner fender well (These are the gray wires supplied in the kit). Plug into the black wires from the fog lamps. Secure as necessary with nylon wire tie straps. You should route the gray wire up to the firewall near the engine bulkhead pass through connector, to the right of the brake master cylinder.
8. Locate the dimples in the firewall above the bulkhead connector. Drill a .437 (7/16) hole at the farthest left dimple. You will find this hole above the gas pedal on the inside of the vehicle.
9. Install the grommet with gray wire in the drilled hole from the inside out. Hook up the gray wire in the engine compartment that was routed to this area in step #7. At this point, you should be finished on the outside of the vehicle. Now you are ready to hook up the switch and power wiring under the dash.
10. Mount the supplied circuit breaker under the screw on the wiper motor. Note that the post on the circuit breaker is marked 12V source.
11. Route the supplied underdash harness over the steering column to the area below the headlamp switch.
12. Locate the headlamp switch harness and find the large black wire with the orange stripe. Using the scotch connector supplied, connect the light blue wire to this one. Close the scotch connector with pliers and tape the connector securely. Connect the other end to the 12V post on the circuit breaker.
13. Connect the other light blue wire to the other post on the circuit breaker.
14. Find the small black wire at the headlamp switch harness and hook the supplied black wire to it. This will turn the tail light on with the fog lights. Some cars will have a connector in the harness to directly plug the new wire into. Since the plug is not found on most cars, either use a scotch lock connector or bare the wire and solder the new wire to it.
15. Mount the fog light switch. Plug into the harness. On a 65, find the existing .437 hole in the dash, to the left of the parking brake. On a 66, drill a .437 hole in the dash, 2.125 inches straight in to the right of the left door jam switch.
16. Be sure all the wires are clear of the pedals and parking brake. Secure as necessary with nylon tie straps.